|Starla's Troubleshooting Tips for making better candles.
Finding the correct solution to candle making problems
and working with candle ingredients.
Working with wax can be troublesome at first.
|Some common problems that occur for the beginner when making candles
are as follows:
Ever get that black cauliflower knob on top of you wick? The wick is to big.
It can't absorb the wax fast enough for the burning candle. It will cause
excessive smoke. See candle supplies making all the difference in the candle
If the wax is too hard or the wick too small, a crater will form burning down
the center. The diameter of wick determines how large the circle will burn,
but the hardness or softness of the wax is also a factor. When they talk
about small, medium, or large with, they are talking about the diameter of
the circle the wicks burns, not how tall the wick is. Supplies are the key.
The wick tab does a couple things. First, it stops the wick from burning
beyond the tab to prevent fire and second, it keeps the wick from falling
over near the end of the burning, drowning out the wick. It also stabilizes
the wick in the liquid wax. I, also, like the big bottom votive wicks for
making votives. The big bottom lets you place the wick in the votive cup
before pouring the wax! This is a great time saver and you don't splash
the wax over the cup trying to get the wick in. I don't drill votives, so the
wick has to go in when the candle is being poured. Just give a little pull to
the wick, after the wax has cooled, but not hardened, to straighten the
wick up. Votives are so short, this is an easy way to make them, then
after they have cooled all the way, I add the second pour. Even for
votives, I wait overnight before I fill in the "sink hole".
If I have a tall candle, I will pour the wax, let it cool, pop the mold, drill a
hole for the wick and thread wick through the bottom like threading a
needle, then place the candle back in the mold and finish the project. This
keeps your wick perfectly straight when burning.
Paraffin wax will shrink when it is cooling, so the wick will "snake" up from
the bottom and be pulled down from the top if you add the wick during the
pouring of the candle. The only way to avoid this - as it is sometimes
necessary - is to hot glue the wick to the bottom of the container and tie it
tight to a stick or pencil across the top of the container, while it cools.
|Paraffin wax will expand when it is melted and contracts when it is cool. It is
suppose to do this, otherwise you would never be able to get wax out of a mold.
This is all well and good but this will cause the wick to "snake up" from the bottom,
like I said earlier. You will not get a straight wick and therefor, not a straight burn.
Uneven burns equals poor candle making. Drilling the hole in the candle after it is
finished cooling corrects this problem. See candle making instructions page for
photos and techniques on the drilling of a wick hole.
Another secret in the art of candle making is the right air temperature in the room,
so the product will cool correctly. Cooling to quickly will cause a bubble in the middle.
You won't see the hole, but it is there, just beneath the top. When burning, all the
wax will drain into the center and drowned out your wick. When making candles,
consider the air temperature of the room. If you get a hole in the center of the
scented candles, then drill down in the base and fill the hole with wax and prevent
drowning of the wick when burning. This is one problem summer heat cures! The
cold weather will make creating pie crust or hand rolled cinnamon rolls a hassle in the
winter too. The wax just isn't cooling right without the right air temperature and
the product is harder to make perfect.
If Wax is too cool when poured into glass jars, this will cause "frost marks" on the
jar's sides. This will also, cause "frost marks" on a pillar candle when you take it out
of a mold if you poured the wax to cool.
Pour wax in a mold with harden wax caked all over the outside and you have the
same thing. You have to clean your candle molds. I use a box cuter to scrap the
wax off of votive cups and ceramic container molds. Sometimes you can just melt
the left over wax dripping off by dunking your mold in hot wax then wiping it down
with Bounty paper towels. I find that Bounty works best with wax.
Everything affects a candle making product. For instance, J50 Astorlite - If you fill a
mason jar up past the point where the jar starts to concave in and you may get a
"worm hole" beside the wick. This is caused by cooling to quickly on top where the
jar is smaller. Air temperature of the room!
About molds, you can use metal, tins, ceramics, pager cups (the kind without the
wax coating, just tear off when cool), milk cartons (perfect for the ice candle), just
about anything that will hold hot liquid will hold wax. Just make sure there are no
funny ridges that would prohibit hard wax form coming out. With the paper cups
and the milk cartons, you are tearing these away anyhow, no big deal, as they are
not expensive. The cake, ice, drizzle, and decorate with wax, cut out, paint (there is
a medium for use with acrylics that will adhere the paint to the wax. I always make
my first new creation without scent. If I don't like it, I just melt it back down.
Candle making is an art. It takes experimentation to make the perfect candle with
the right burn and the right scent throw. Just my opinion of the secrets of a good
|Making Candle Secrets
Some problems you may have when making candles - trouble shooting.
So, when ever you are trying to find out to troubleshoot candle making problems
and deciding how working with candle ingredients makes all the difference.
Some common problems that occur when working with wax, troubleshooting these problems, and finding
solutions to trouble with candle making ingredients.
Working with wax can be troublesome at times..
When making candles, please don't spend your money on a commercialized kit when you don't need one. Don't
waste your hard earned money! Just see our candle making instructions pages and find out how to get the
candle crafting item you need.
Supplies are at the very heart of making candles. The right wax, scents, and wicks are the most important
ingredients when you make a candle. If you want the very best for yourself, then you want the best
ingredients. We make the candles, so we use the finest candle making supplies. We offer the same supplies to
you. We don't dilute or skimp on the scents or wax in any way. Other places can't say that. We use the same
scent company that Missys candle supply used when they were in business.
The secret in the craft art of making candles is in the quality of the supplies.
We blend our own paraffin and other supplies with special ingredients to make wax, which can be molded into
specialty products like the log rolls, logs, snowmen, pies, cakes and other faux food. We know exactly what
candle supplies we are working with. The same scents and wax are used in our waxed dipped scented bears -
these are one of our best sellers.
I started candle making and wanted a product that people could smell when burning. Fragrances that smell
good mean that you have to buy a scent that is formulated for wax and not soaps, etc. The scent I have is
made only for candles that work in wax - that's all. I think if the scents are formulated for soaps and other
uses, it dilutes the scent throw properties in the formulation.
Smoking a problem? They will smoke if the wax, scents, or wicks were made incorrectly. Too much scent or
poor quality scents will cause smoking. The wrong size wick will do the same. Wax has to be good or the
product won't burn at all. The combination of all three creates good or bad.
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